Animal Caregiver • Cat Behaviorist • Artist

Overstimulation In Cats

Petting-Induced Overstimulation in Cats

Full body pets can become too much stimulation for a cat. Their bodies have fine whiskers throughout their fur, and are therefore highly sensitive. All of that stimulating energy is usually channeled in what appears to be sudden mouthiness (also called “love bites”) or striking behavior.

Know the warning signs

Often humans misinterpret the cat’s body language leading up to overstimulation as enjoyment when they are actually communicating that they have had enough. Telltale signs include:

● Purring stops

● Twitching skin along the back

● Changing position or stiffening

● A swishing or thumping tail

● Ears go back toward the head (airplane ears)

● Head turns toward your hand

● Growling

● Dilated pupils

● Rolling away

Stop petting your cat at the first of these warning signs. Once you know the signs, you’ll also be able to gauge for how long you can pet your cat before they start exhibiting these signs. Each cat is an individual, so you’ll need to watch for what the cat can tolerate.

Reasons for overstimulation

Petting-induced overstimulation can be due to several reasons:

● Not enough socialization with other cats. Single kittens who did not grow up with litter-mates often become overstimulated when petted. Mouthy behavior during play is normal among kittens, and kittens learn from each other or from their mom when to stop.

● Not enough interaction with humans enough as kittens.

● Pain and the cat may need medical attention. If your cat appears to be overstimulating more than

usual, you may want to consult your regular veterinarian.

Some cats simply have a lower threshold to being touched than others. They may enjoy being petted, but only for a short period of time, or only in certain places.

How to help prevent petting-induced overstimulation

Focus on petting the cat’s head, face, chin, cheeks instead those places are less sensitive for most cats and therefore less likely to become overstimulated. Learn where your cat likes to be petted, and stick to those areas when petting them.

A recent study showed surprising results of where on their body cats like to be petted. Other recommendations to prevent petting induced overstimulation:

● Rule out any physical / medical issues for your cat’s behavior. Your cat may be in pain from arthritis, an injury you’re not aware of, or dental pain.

● Teach your cat that toys, not your hands, are the appropriate place for mouthy behavior. What may be cute in a tiny kitten can be painful from a large adult cat. Once cats associate your hands with being a toy, it will be difficult to modify the behavior.

● Accept that some cats simply don’t like to be petted or cuddled for long periods of time. Trying to make your cat into someone they’re not will only damage the bond between the two of you.

● Always ignore undesired behaviors and reward desired ones. Correcting a cat only accomplishes one thing: making your cat afraid of you. Yelling, tapping their nose and pushing or chasing them only develops fear.

Using counter-conditioning

A wonderful way to modify your cat’s behavior is by rewarding them. In order to do this properly, you need to stop petting them long before they show you warning signs. Reward them with a treat after each stroke, and repeat several times, then stop petting altogether. Always end the short petting session with a treat and before they’ve had enough. Either move away or start to stand up if they’re on your lap. In time, your cat may realize that biting equals a “time out,” and eventually enjoy longer intervals of being petted.

Play-Induced Overstimulation in Cats

Cats need to play. Play is vitally important to a cat’s mental and physical health. In the wild, when lions, tigers and other wild cats aren’t sleeping, they’re either hunting or teaching their young to hunt. Play is nothing more than channeling your domestic tiger’s hunting instinct into play.

This hunt / prey behavior starts as soon as kittens are old enough to stand. Kittens will “stalk” their litter-mates and pounce on them. This is one of the reasons why young kittens should always be adopted with another kitten, or into a household with another kitten or young adult cat. Not only do kittens need a playmate, playing with another cat will also teach the kitten that biting / clawing hurts, which will naturally moderate rough play behavior.

Signs of play-induced overstimulation

One of the most common signs of play-induced overstimulation or “play aggression” is “ankle grabbing.” You walk past your cat and, all of a sudden, they grab your ankle and scratch or bite. Play-induced overstimulation can also be directed at your hands, especially if you use them to play with your cat – something that may be cute when they’re a kitten, but painful once they’ve turned into an adult cat.

There’s a difference between rough play and play-induced overstimulation

It can sometimes be difficult to determine the difference between rough play and play-induced overstimulation – there’s a very fine line between the two. Watch your cat’s body language for clues. Normal play behavior can include the sideways pounce or hop, often with the back arched. During this “fun” play, ears and tails will be straight up in the air. There may be some hissing, but play is usually
quiet. If you notice a cat’s ears turn toward the back of the head (“airplane ears”) or you hear growling, the play has tipped over into overstimulation / aggression.

How to prevent and correct play-induced overstimulation

Provide a variety of toys for your cat

Toys that stimulate your cat’s natural hunting instinct (interactive wand toys) are most effective for creating a fun play experience for your cat that also helps them burn off excess energy. Even though there are lots of cute little catnip filled toys on the market, simply placing one in front of your cat and hoping that they’ll play with it is not enough.

Structured “Play Therapy”

The solution to play aggression / overstimulation is regular, structured, interactive play - “play therapy.” Play with your cat at regular times every day, at least twice a day, for 10-15 minutes each. Playing about a half hour before bed is a great idea, because it will help you get a better night’s sleep. These play sessions will not only keep your cat happy, they’re also a wonderful way to strengthen the bond between cat and human.

Get creative with playtime

Interactive puzzle toys can be a great way to keep your cats entertained and mentally stimulated when
you can’t play with them. The toys are designed to be filled with treats, and they challenge your cat to
retrieve the treats through varied openings in the toys. This foraging behavior is very satisfying for them.

Interactive, fishing pole type toys such as the Go Cat Cat Catcher, Neko Flies or DaBird are the best
way to get your cat playing with you, and to satisfy their hunt / prey instinct.

How you move the interactive toy is important. Don’t wave it around frantically just to give your cat an aerobic workout. That’s not how cats naturally hunt. Stick to what’s natural for your cat. In the wild, a cat would stalk their prey while staying as quiet and invisible as possible. They would inch closer and closer and then, when they gets within striking distance, they would pounce. Cats don’t have the lung capacity to chase to exhaustion, so don’t conduct marathons throughout the house. Move the toy like prey,
alternating between fast and slow motions so it gives your cat time to plan their next move.

Here’s a tip: Movements that go away from or across your cat’s visual field are best as they will trigger their prey drive. Don’t dangle the toy in their face or move it toward them.

There is a fantastic article describing in detail how to play with your cat at littlebigcat.com. Jackson Galaxy also made a great video about how to properly play with your cat.

Rotate toys in and out. Don’t keep the same toys out in the same spot all the time – this will almost guarantee that your cats will get bored with them. Put some toys away for a week or two, and then bring them out again. Your cats will think they got a brand new toy. But don’t hide their favorite toy that they play with all the time.

Cat toys don’t need to be expensive. To a cat, almost everything can become a toy: grocery bags with the handles cut out, boxes, toilet paper rolls, milk carton tops, tissue paper – in a cat’s mind, these were all just made to be played with. Some cats enjoy chasing bubbles, or batting Q-tips around the bathtub. Think like a cat, and you may be surprised at the things you already have in your home that make the purr-fect cat toy.

How to redirect play-induced overstimulation behavior

Never play with your cats using your hands!

Cats will come to associate your hand as just another toy, and they won’t understand why it’s okay to
grab and kick the mouse, but not your hands.

Distract your cat with an appropriate toy

If you have an ankle grabber, always carry a toy with you. When you see your cat approaching, toss the toy ahead of you to distract them.

Give your cat a timeout

Stop any play and interaction with your cat the instant they start to play rough or scratch or bite you. Leave the room, or direct your attention elsewhere. Don’t pick up your cat to remove them from the area, as their energy will be already heightened from playing, and trying to physically interact with them may lead to a scratch or bite. Be consistent about this and don’t inadvertently reward bad behavior.

Never punish your cat

It goes without saying that you should never yell at your cat, hit, or chase them. Do not use squirt bottles to correct unwanted behavior. Punishment only accomplishes one thing: it will make your cat afraid of you, and possibly make them become even more aggressive. It will also ruin your bond with your cat. You want to find out what is causing the undesired behavior and work to eliminate that from the cat's life.